By: Heidi Wagenbach
As a kid, I always squirmed at the texture of deviled eggs (not a fan of mayonnaise) even though I enjoyed the flavor. Now, as an adult, I can confidently say that both making and eating these little appetizers are great. They’re easy and delicious, and a staple at our house during the spring holidays. With Easter coming up in April, I’m looking forward to helping out in the kitchen again to make these, alongside some chocolate-covered strawberries… I’m getting distracted. Let’s focus on why you clicked this article… you want to know why fluffy halves of eggs got deemed as “deviled.” How about we find out?
From Ancient Rome…
Despite deviled eggs becoming popular after WWII, they didn’t originate in the US. Traveling all the way back to Ancient Rome, eggs were boiled, seasoned with spicy sauces, and typically served at the beginning of the meal, called “gustatio,” aka a treat for wealthy patricians. They became so well-known that Romans created a saying: “ab ova usque ad mala,” translating to “from eggs to apples,” meaning the start and end of the meal. According to the Apicius, which was a collection of Roman recipes that was compiled apparently between the 4th and 5th century AD, boiled eggs were seasoned with oil and wine, then served with pepper and silphium (a plant which is extinct in the 21st century). Another called for poached eggs soaked in pine nuts, herbs, pepper, honey, vinegar, and broth.
… To the 1400s
Come the 13th century, and stuffed eggs were appearing in what we now know as Spain. An anonymous cookbook instructed the reader to pound boiled egg yolks with cilantro, onion juice, pepper, coriander, and murri (a sauce made of barley or fish), oil and salt. Going ahead to the 15th century, this popular dish was spreading across Europe. Medieval cookbooks contained recipes for eggs filled with raisins, cheese, herbs (like mint and parsley). They were then fried in oil, topped with a sauce of cinnamon, ginger, and cloves. Last but not least, the eggs were powdered with sugar and served hot.
… And Finally The 1900s
In 1786 Great Britain, “devil” was coined as a culinary term, meaning highly seasoned food prepared with spicy ingredients, then boiled or fried. It could also be a connection to the claimed hot temperatures in Hell. (Similar to the hot sauce brands “The Reaper” or “Hellfire.” I don’t know about you, but I don’t think I’d eat something that suggests death). Then by 1800, deviling was a verb to describe the process of making foods spicy. Many refer to deviled eggs as “mimosa eggs,” “stuffed eggs,” “dressed eggs,” or even “angel eggs”, to avoid any negative connotation with Satan. Fannie Farmer’s 1896 “Boston Cooking-School Cookbook” was one of the earliest to suggest the use of mayonnaise as a binder, but that ingredient was not commonly featured until the 1940s.
5 Fun Facts
- National Deviled Egg Day in 2021 takes place on Tuesday, November 2nd.
- Two deviled eggs have 126 calories, 6 grams of protein, a good amount of vitamins B, A, and K… plus a healthy dose of fat and salt.
- Sonya Thomas, a competitive eater, holds the record of eating 65 hard boiled eggs in just under 7 minutes.
- Over 60% of Americans will eat deviled eggs on Easter (ha, a bit ironic, isn’t it?).
- Chef Alex Guarnaschelli from the Food Network has her own signature deviled egg recipe that calls for 6 hard-boiled egg yolks, 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon each of smooth mustard, Worcestershire sauce, white wine vinegar, paprika, lemon juice, hot sauce, cream, salt, and scallions.
Conclusion
Deviled eggs have a long and evolving history that eventually led to what we recognize today. There are countless and creative ways to how they can be prepared, with everyone having their own unique take on how to make these somewhat controversial savory snacks. All I know is I’m looking forward to having some again (seeing that we only make them once a year).
Sources:
The Ancient History of Deviled Eggs